When building a 3D printer, there are lots of options you can go with for a build platform, and whether to have it heated or not. I will not go into all of them, but simply state what I am going to use compared to Toolson’s designs.
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To support the print bed from the y-axis and the bed frame Prusa 3D printers use bolts, washers and nuts on each corner with a spring for tension. Toolson’s edition of the P3Steel does away with these springs and opts for a novel (genius) solution of using silicone dampeners.
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Y-Axis Carriage Now that the clamps are sorted it’s time to fit them to the blank y-carriage, as seen below. The 2.5 DXL frame uses four points to fasten bearings, some holes...
Bronze Bushings or LM8UU Bearings The standard Prusa builds (and most other 3D Printers, CNCs, engravers etc) use LMU88 linear bearings for all linear rod movements. They are the go to part...
The steel frame of the P3Steel could easily scratch up any surface it sits on, and vibrations and movement may be translated down through it’s legs. I am building the printer on...
Y-Axis Motor Part of the frame assembly (or just after) is to fasten the y-axis motor mount and belt idler. They sit either side of each other at the two ends of...
With the frame painted and dry, first thing to do is bolt together the main structure. It slots together like a jigsaw and there was absolutely no issues or problems in this process....
The steel needs to be protected from the elements before it starts to rust – even if kept indoors the moisture from the air will begin to rust it. Because of this...
This is the start of my build log of the Prusa i3 P3Steel, and the start to most of these kits – you need something to screw and bolt everything else to...
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