For this printer I will be using the standard and simple setup of an Arduino Mega and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The Arduino Mega is the brains of the printer and will process all the g-code instructions from the .gcode files from either an SD card or over USB and tell the printer how to move, heat up, extrude filament etc by signalling all the motors, heaters and sensors on the printer which are connected via the RAMPS board, which in turn is connected to the Arduino Mega via the GPIO pins.
New 3D printing time lapse test using my P3Steel. Still yet to install Octoprint or a webcam, so have been testing with taking time lapse sequences on my old Canon Powershot A570 and a custom firmware from CHDK. This was for my eldest daughter who is in high school for her Geography class.
Following on from the x-axis build – I skimmed over the last part, just “installing with the z-axis rods and threaded M5 screw”. This post helps to expand on this part, installing the x-axis and carriage onto the printer with the installation of the z-axis smooth 8mm rods and the z-axis screw – which for this build is the standard M5 threaded rod. Read on!
Building one of the more complex parts of the P3Steel which hosts the hotend carriage and connects the x and z travel together. Read on for a detailed breakdown of the x-axis setup and installation.
A remix of a great little Gecko model to be used as a fridge magnet. One of my kids loves putting things on the fridge, and loves my super strong neodymium magnets, and loves 3D printing, so I combined the lot in this remix! She even helped with the measuring of the magnet using my … Read more
Either by fault of my own or tolerances in the steel rod or frame after successfully wiggling and inserting the rod, they did not fit snug and were not tight enough, This caused the rods to move as the print bed went back and forth. I did not want any possible movement in the rods, so investigated Thingiverse for a simple clip bracket to hold the rods in place at each end. A couple of minutes later and there was a simple little bracket design by user Hobsie which looked perfect and resolved the issue.
Y-Axis Carriage Now that the clamps are sorted it’s time to fit them to the blank y-carriage, as seen below. The 2.5 DXL frame uses four points to fasten bearings, some holes in the middle for the y-axis belt tension block and the bed screws holes at each corner. The middle “sticky-outy” part seen below … Read more
Bronze Bushings or LM8UU Bearings The standard Prusa builds (and most other 3D Printers, CNCs, engravers etc) use LMU88 linear bearings for all linear rod movements. They are the go to part when you use 8mm smooth rod as your axis guides and are cheap, easy to use and readily available. The quality of these … Read more
A neat little model to print and make from Thingiverse. I want to print the original full size Articulated Octopus, but for now I found this remix which is a keyring. Printed on my Printrbot Simple 3D Printer and recorded on the time lapse function of my Octoprint Octopi print server installed on a Raspberry Pi.
I was in need of a case for my Raspberry Pi Zero so looked around on Thingiverse for a suitable one. I wanted a simple case with no mechanical fasteners, just something to protect it and have easy “snap on” parts. I went with the model by cfunseth on Thingiverse, but soon realised it wouldn’t … Read more