The steel frame of the P3Steel could easily scratch up any surface it sits on, and vibrations and movement may be translated down through it’s legs. I am building the printer on a table, so was very aware of scratching it(!) A look on Thinkgiverse shows a lot of different feet for the printer, but there was one that had all six together, including the two “middle” feet which I think help support the inner/middle frame. Original model is by Diegomanitas and can be found here – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:592637. My make can be found here – http://www.thingiverse.com/make:229263.
I did one foot print to start with just to check the fit, and all was fine, so I printed the rest (I was able to split the six part STL in Cura to test the single print). After printed they all slotted on without any fuss, and no clean up. I should have used a raft for my printer to get them level and true, but I intend to add a layer of foam to the bottom, so any irregularities will not show up. Plus before I glue on the foam layer, I may well give them a little sand too. Check out the time lapse below. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel to keep up to date with new videos too!
Print Settings Below:
Filament: 3D Prima 1.75 PLA – Orange
Filament used: 7.773m 22.0g
Layer Height: 0.2064mm
Temperature: 210°C
Perimeters: 2 at 0.4mm (0.8mm total)
Infill: 25%
Raft: No
Support: None
Brim: No
Speed: 20mm/s
Time: About 3 hours 15 minutes
STL Scale: 100%
Here are the feet after the print, all lined up nicely!
And fitted onto the P3Steel frame. The fit really well and stay on with friction (for now!).
Marco
1st July 2016 at 11:50 am
Hi Stephen
Very good work! Keep going!
First of all: you are doing a very good job, with your printer and with your blog (very well explained and awesome photo). Bravo!
I wish i can follow you soon…i had decided to build a P3s toolsen edition from the 2.5 frame like you. This will be my first printer so i had to replace printed parts with steel (i can access to a laser cutter for free) for start printing and than, if i had weight issues, re-replace with printed parts.
I’m a little scared about electronics because i have no experience…are you going to buy a kit with a pre-installed firmware or doing your own?
I’m sorry for my english.
Thank you for all. Marco
ChunkySteveo
1st July 2016 at 9:15 pm
Hey Marco, thanks for the comment!
Glad you like the blog so far. I am further along with the build than I am at writing it up.. but I should start posting more updated steps soon! Good luck with the build.
There are some steel part designs on Thingiverse for the X-axis parts, so you should do OK there. I think if you are not printing the parts it’s not much of a Toolson Edition, more of a “Marco Remix”!! 🙂
If you cut them all from steel I think you will find it very heavy. I am amazed at just how heavy the printer is – the 3mm steel soon adds up!!! If you can, get the remaining parts cut from Aluminium (and if they work in Aluminium) to save on weight. If you look hard enough I think you can get all the remaining parts in steel/aluminium designs. It will be one solid beast!!
Best of luck with it, and your English is great, well done!!
Steve
ChunkySteveo
1st July 2016 at 9:21 pm
Ahh – this is the one I was thinking about – maybe steel carriage is OK?! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1528308
ChunkySteveo
2nd July 2016 at 5:32 pm
Sorry Marco – I completely ignored your question about the electronics. I am doing them all myself. I have a little experience in hobby electronics – 5-12v stuff like Raspberry Pi, Arduino etc, so I am comfortable with it.
I was not comfortable about the PSU and mains electronics, so I have read up a lot of guides and tutorials and taken all advise on board! I am happy with my setup now and I feel it is very safe. You need to think long term, and your printer may well be running at 100% for several hours printing large items, and if like me – you may be printing during the night and when you have to leave it unattended. So preparing your electronics to NEVER* fail is essential!! (* never failing is not possible, but 99% reliability is aimed for!). I think this cautious approach came from when I was testing my Arduino and RAMPS I bought and the 5V regulator on the Arduino shorted out and burnt up (literally!!) in front of me!!
If you break down all the electronics down into manageable chunks, there’s not too much to think about – you will need some knowledge to solder, crimp etc – so if you are not comfortable about that it might be wise to buy a kit pre-wired. There may be Prusa P3Steel electronic kits out there that need no soldering etc?
Best of luck, and keep safe with electronics!
Marco
3rd July 2016 at 11:46 am
Thank you Stephen! Very usefull suggestions.
About the frame: i think i will make a remix from designs find on thingverse with some modification in the toolsen edition direction (sinter bronze bearing, x belt tensioner, ecc..). I will make all in moviment parts in aluminium, also the y bed.
About electronics: i’ve find somewhere a kit for a prusa steel but it’s too expensive. I’m not scared about soldering but i had never use arduino…
At the moment i’m thinking about the frame. I don’t have a lot of time to working on it so i’m in the design phase yet.
Good work!
ChunkySteveo
4th July 2016 at 7:47 am
Hi Marco,
All sounds great, would love to see it once it’s built!
If the electronics is only lack of experience, don’t worry – there is lots of tutorials and guides online and videos on YouTube. Start with the basics and work your way up. I am going to be using Marlin firmware on my setup with an Arduino MEGA and a RAMPS 1.4 board sat on top. Again – there are loads of tutorials and guides explaining how to set it up and get it working.
Steve